Among the centuries-old vineyards of the Chianti hills, a wine is making its way that represents the result of years of research and dedication, born from a project that has developed over time, focusing on constant evolution: we are talking about Pigole di Dudda, the first born (harvest 2020-bottling 2022) of Azienda Agricola Giacomo Grassi, a wine that is not just the result of a vintage but of years of study, experimentation and, above all, passion and love for viticulture.
The story of Pigole di Dudda began back in 2004, when Giacomo Grassi found himself with a hectare of Chianti Classico and IGT quotas to plant. From the beginning, his approach to viticulture had not been limited to just following the rules of tradition but aimed at growth and study, for a rediscovery of the past that was respectful of the land and its roots.
In those years, the Italian wine market was overwhelmed by a trend: French grape varieties, which were in high demand, seemed to be the way to go, and Giacomo-who is also a consulting agronomist for other farms-had the opportunity to pursue a Master’s degree in Viticulture precisely in Bordeaux.
After studying these grape varieties in depth, however, he realized that there was little authentic or lasting behind this trend: French wines had achieved success not because of their affinity with the Tuscan soil but because of a clever commercial game. What seemed like a passing fad would soon give way to the rediscovery of native grape varieties, the varieties that have characterized the Tuscan territory for centuries.
Back in Italy, he continued his studies, and it was at this point that, among his notes from a distant time, Giacomo came across a 1922 pamphlet about forgotten grape varieties: inside was an image, a painting by Bartolomeo Bimbi, a 17th-century painter (1648-1729), depicting some 30 grape varieties found in Tuscany more than 300 years ago.
It was a document that made him think deeply about the possibility of rediscovering these minor grape varieties that had resisted the passage of time; thus it was that his research took a new turn. It was not just a matter of historical curiosity, but a real mission.
Giacomo decided to plant eight of these minor grape varieties, in eight small “pigules,” that is, small plots of land: the varieties were ancient and little-known grapes, but all with a history and character of their own. These included Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Pugnitello, Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Foglia Tonda and Abrusco. Grape varieties that tell the story of a land that has never stopped evolving but jealously preserves its heritage.
In 2020, with the pandemic changing the course of things, Giacomo was faced with a new challenge: having canceled all his Farm’s oil presentation events, his free time allowed him to focus even more on his vineyards. These included a vineyard of Sangiovese that, while neither young nor old, had left him uncertain of its potential in producing a wine for long aging, so he decided to also “flank” a Canaiolo and a Colorino cone in his viticultural project: when the harvest arrived, he realized that the Sangiovese grape was perfect as it was, he did not need to add any other supporting vines.
But the Canaiolo and Colorino pinecones were there, ready to be harvested.
CURIOSITY:
Pigola: In agriculture, an irregularly shaped field, which generally results as a residual part in the division of a fund into regular (mostly rectangular) fields. (www.Treccani.it)
What began as a “stopgap,” a solution to possibly complete a not entirely satisfactory harvest, soon turned into something extraordinary: a wine composed of 70 percent Canaiolo and 30 percent Colorino, which Giacomo described as an ode to simplicity and terroir and which, as the months went by, proved to be more and more interesting.
The insight he had gained during his studies in France, visiting the Rhone Valley and learning about the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape (a wine made from thirteen different grapes), was beginning to take shape.
An idea of wine that was enriched over time, just like great wines that needed years to express their true essence.
In the 2021 vintage, Giacomo also added Ciliegiolo and Mammolo to the blend, enriching it with new nuances and complexity. In 2022, when the dream took shape, that he decided to also include Malvasia Nera and Pugnitello. A bold step that allowed him to obtain an even more complex and fascinating wine, with a bouquet of scents that transported those who tasted it on an unparalleled sensory journey.
Production was and is limited, just 600-700 bottles, but that little dream that was being born was making its way into the hearts of wine lovers.
2023 was a difficult year for the grapes, with unfavorable weather leading to a poor harvest. Nevertheless, Giacomo managed to save some of his grapes but decided not to vinify them. The market had offered very high figures and he, in a gesture of respect for his land and his project, decided to sell the grapes without making wine.
So we arrive at 2024, the year when Pigole di Dudda finally takes its final form. Giacomo adds Foglia Tonda and Abrusco to his already rich blend, but this time the percentages are minimal: the result is a Pigole di Dudda that perfectly embodies the concept of complexity: a wine that reveals itself in every sip, with notes of red fruits, spices and a depth that changes with every taste.
In 2024, therefore, Pigole di Dudda is ready to tell the world its story, a wine that is the fruit of years of research, passion and courage. A wine that is not just a “product” but the result of a dream come true, and one that promises to grow and evolve as the years go by. A tribute to the land, to historical memory and to a future that, with each bottle, becomes more and more concrete.
